Piotr's journey through Kurdistan has neither been translated nor received attention in Kurdish studies. The present translation is the first attempt to accomplish both, making some of the most interesting passages available to a wider audience.
Piotr, an Italian author who traveled to the Ottoman/Safavid realms, as well as Kurdistan in between (1614-1620s), recounted his knowledge and experiences with Kurdish dynasties and customs of Kurds as follows:
...a village called Chizil-Rabat, the last inhabited place under Ottoman jurisdiction. Indeed, it is inhabited and governed by a certain Ahmed, or Muhammad Beg, chief of many Kurds, to whom the Grand Signior (Ottoman ruler) grants its administration in perpetuity, on the condition that he and all the people dwelling along those frontiers serve him in return, as they in fact do.
Since I have spoken of these Kurds and shall have much more to say about them, it is necessary, before proceeding further, to give Your Lordship some account of them.
Kurdistan, that is, the land of the Kurds, lies directly between the Turks and the Persians. In breadth, from east to west, it extends no more than ten or twelve days' journey at most, in some places more and in others less. From north to south, however, it stretches a great distance, beginning, according to my understanding, between Babylonia and Susiana, near the Persian Gulf, and running northward above Mosul, or Nineveh, between Armenia and Media, almost, I believe, as far as the vicinity of the Black Sea.
It is a strong country, for it is entirely mountainous. It is in fact a branch of the Taurus Mountains, which breaks off from that range and, crossing Asia at this point from one side to the other, extends down to the Persian Gulf. Nature itself seems to have placed it there as a boundary and partition between the two great empires of the Turks and the Persians, just as I believe it once formed the frontier between the Romans and the Parthians.
What Kurdistan was called in ancient times I do not know, nor do I think it then possessed a single general name as it does today. Rather, I believe it was divided among several peoples bearing different names, as we see in the writers of those ages. Among these peoples, especially in the northern regions, were likely the Carduchi, who along the River Tigris caused so much trouble to Xenophon and his men during their retreat toward Greece, as he recounts in full in those truly golden books on the expedition.
The Kurds have a language of their own, distinct from the surrounding Arabic, Turkish, and Persian tongues. Yet their speech bears some resemblance to a rough or rustic form of Persian more than to any other language.
Many of them live under tents, wandering from place to place with their flocks and herds. The greater part, however, live more settled and civilized lives in permanent villages and towns.
They obey various lords of their own, mostly hereditary rulers, who acknowledge either the Turk or the Persian as overlord according to their proximity, much as feudal barons acknowledge a sovereign. The most powerful among them, however, are independent.
These lords vary greatly in strength. Some can field ten or twelve thousand horsemen, as could one whom I saw in Constantinople, the ruler of Bitlis. Others, such as the Beg mentioned above, are considered significant if they command two or three thousand men.
The more powerful rulers do not profess vassalage, but merely live under the protection of one or the other king. At times they even change allegiance whenever it suits their interests, much as some of the lesser princes of Italy do. The weaker ones are content not only to be vassals, but at times even to hold their governorships only for a fixed term and for life, rather than by hereditary right.
Their dress is a rough mixture of Turkish and Persian fashions. Their women go about freely with uncovered faces and converse openly with men, both locals and foreigners alike.
As for religion, they follow either the Persian or the Turkish sect of the Islamic faith, according to whether they are more closely attached politically to one ruler or the other. It is true, however, that other Muslims (Persians and Turks) regard them as unsound in their faith, and say that alongside the false traditions of Muhammad they maintain certain superstitions of their own that incline toward paganism. Of these I cannot speak with certainty, since I am not well informed on the matter.
In some parts of their lands, such as Jazira, a city of Mesopotamia situated on an island in the Tigris River (as its name itself signifies), ruled by a Kurdish prince; and in the mountains which the Chaldeans call Tur, meaning "mountain" or "mountain province," where the Chaldean language is still commonly spoken and where the Kurds likewise rule, there live large numbers of Chaldean Christians, mostly of the Nestorian or Jacobite rites. The Kurds sometimes even employ them as soldiers. Such is the condition of the Kurds.
Piotr was accompanied by his wife on the tour across Kurdistan. His travelogue has a charming anecdote about their visit in a Kurdish village, where they were greeted by an aristocratic lady who appears to have the leading figure of the region in the absence of her husband:
Kurds, both men and women, came from all directions to bring us and sell us foodstuffs: milk, small pistachios—the same kind of which I sent samples to Your Lordship, though these were fresh, still covered by their green outer husks. Kurdistan produces them in great abundance, along with many other similar goods.
On the tenth day, after climbing a series of small hills, we traveled for half a day and, for the convenience of provisions and fodder, stopped beside a small stream called Lenghi Imam, below a small Kurdish village known as Lenghi Conaghi, meaning "New Resting Place."
There I began exchanging my Syrian attire for Persian dress. As a first step, I found a rustic barber and, with great ceremony, had him remove in a single stroke my long and magnificent beard, which, to my immense discomfort, I had carefully maintained and combed throughout my stay in Turkey for nearly sixteen months, ever since departing from Constantinople.
During the night at Lenghi Conaghi we had rain and snow, though not cold weather, and it was the first time this had happened during the entire journey. On the eleventh day we departed late, waiting for the tents to dry, since they had become stiff and frozen from the snow and could not be folded. Nevertheless, we arrived in good time and camped at the foot of a great mountain that we had to cross, near a fortress called Pesciver, recently built there to guard the frontier.
At that time Qāsim Sultan, whom I mentioned earlier, was stationed there with perhaps five hundred of his soldiers, while the rest of his forces were dispersed among various posts along the nearby border. We remained there throughout the twelfth day, partly to rest the animals so that they would be fresher for the mountain crossing, and partly because it was customary for caravans to stop there and present gifts to the sultan. Besides governing the villages, he also exercised authority over a large number of Kurds who roamed those mountains and plains.
During our stay we experienced cold weather for both nights and an exceedingly fierce wind, against which neither poles nor ropes were sufficient to keep the tents standing.
On the morning of the thirteenth we crossed the mountain, which was entirely covered in snow. From that point onward, snow—at least upon the highest ground, if not always falling from the sky—never left us for the remainder of the journey to Isfahan.
Because the great whiteness of the landscape on every side, especially when the sun was shining, was very hard on the eyes, it became necessary to employ the same remedy that Xenophon relates had benefited his soldiers in ancient times: placing a black band before the eyes, whose shade protected them from the dazzling whiteness of the snow, making it much less troublesome. That evening we reached our lodging place early, sheltered among the mountains. There, by great good fortune, we found a small patch of ground free of snow on which to pitch our tents and sleep in the dry.
Near this spot, among the narrow ravines of certain water-rich mountains, stood a small village called Chieren, inhabited by Kurds. Many of them, as was customary, came to our caravan bringing goods to sell. My lady Maani became curious and wished to see their houses. Since they appeared nearer than they actually were, I went on foot alone with her and several women from the country. of those women who had come to visit us with goods to sell, I set out in that direction. We arrived there at nightfall, and along the way I learned from a respectable man who lived there that a certain Khanum Sultan, the lady of that village and of several others nearby, resided there. Since we had come into her territory, Lady Maani felt that courtesy required paying her a visit, and so we went, guided by the same man, who was her steward. It would be difficult to describe the warmth with which we were received—Lady Maani by the sultana, and I by her brother, since her husband was away in the king's service. We wished to take our leave quickly, as it was already late, but they would not allow it. They insisted on preparing a good pilaf and other dishes, and would not hear of our departing until we had dined with them. The women ate separately, while we men were served at the same time in another room. The bread, as I later saw throughout Kurdistan and often in Persia as well, was extremely thin and spread into large round sheets like the pasta used for making lasagna, though white and well baked. Spoons and similar refinements were unknown; instead, the Persian hand served as both spoon and knife. The food itself was truly rustic village fare, yet to us it was more pleasing than the banquets of Sardanapalus or Elagabalus, because of the kindness and generosity with which it was offered. When supper was finished, we departed amid endless expressions of goodwill. The sultana's brother acted as interpreter, translating from Kurdish into Turkish, and he insisted on accompanying us, together with several of his men, all the way back to our tents, which were a good mile distant. In return, Lady Maani sent him back to present the sultana with a basin of fruit and other delicacies to eat, including little cakes in the style of our own countries and similar treats that could not be found in that place, together with some perfumes and other feminine gifts that women are usually fond of.
Piotr continued on, arriving at another Kurdish-populated area. This time, he was so fascinated by a particular characteristic of the residences that he wanted to have them built in Italy... the tannur:
Despite the immense snow both beneath us and falling upon us, we made a long day's journey, passing a place where caravans usually stop and continuing much farther before making camp beside a stream near the village called Mahideset.
On Monday, after only half a day's travel, though a very unpleasant one because of the constant snow, wind, and rain, we arrived at a village built upon a bridge crossing a small river called, like many others in the East, Cara-su ("Black Water"). In Persian it was called Pul-i-Shah, meaning "The King's Bridge," while the Turks called it Shah Köprüsü, which means exactly the same thing.
There, for the convenience of being indoors, and because the snow was still falling heavily, we chose not to lodge in our tents but instead in the house of some Kurds. Men and women lived there together, and we were treated very well, supplied with fire and everything else we needed. From all that I observed, the Kurdish people were exceedingly kind and hospitable.
I noticed there a custom that deserves mention, and which I later found not only throughout Kurdistan but also throughout Persia, at least in the more respectable houses.
They do not make fires in fireplaces. Instead, they use what they call a tannur, a furnace set into the floor. It consists of a pit, either square or round, about two palms deep or a little more, roughly resembling the shape of a Roman barrel. To make it heat more quickly and efficiently, the pit is lined all around with a clay vessel specially made to fit inside it and buried in the ground.
At the bottom they place either glowing embers or a fire of charcoal or some other material that quickly turns to coals. Once this is done, they place over the opening a wooden frame, like a small low table covering the furnace. Over this they spread a large quilt stuffed with cotton, which hangs down to the floor on all sides. By trapping the heat, it produces something of the effect of a stove and warms the entire room remarkably well.
Whether eating or simply conversing—and some even while sleeping—people sit on carpets around this little table, low to the ground, with their backs resting against cushions placed along the walls, in the manner customary in these lands. The tannur is always positioned where the room's walls are at a suitable distance on at least two sides to allow people to sit around it in this fashion.
I was taken aback when I read him, as this is the first explicit confirmation of a thesis I have defended on several occasions, one that runs counter to much of what has been written about the overall premodern history of the Kurds. My thesis has been that whenever political conditions permitted it, there existed a substantial settled Kurdish population.
According to Piotr, this was not a marginal segment of society. There is something deeply satisfying about reconstructing a picture of the past through scattered clues and inferences, without having a source that states it outright, and then finally encountering an author who say the same thing from... direct observation.
With that said, I believe we can be confident in rejecting historical narratives that overlook major demographic realities such as the settled Kurdish population. Any account that treats settled Kurds as a minor element for most of the premodern period, or that focuses almost exclusively on semi-nomadic tribes, is at best misleading and at worst fundamentally false.


