Otter's journey through Kurdistan has neither been translated nor received attention in Kurdish studies. The present translation is the first attempt to accomplish both, making some of the most interesting passages available to a wider audience.
In 1738, Otter was required to travel through Kurdistan on his way to Iran. As an official French envoy, he did not travel alone. Upon entering Ottoman territory, he was accompanied by additional personnel whose task was to ensure his safety and facilitate a smooth journey.
But how well did those precautions work once he encountered the Kurds?
From Urfa to Kotche-hifar, one encounters neither towns nor villages on the road. It is a desert inhabited by Kurds, who fear neither the Pashas, nor even the Ottoman Sultan. Their herds are their wealth; they have no fixed abode, and often change canton to find new pastures. They came during the night to our camp, and having penetrated as far as the Ambafador's tent, they stole jewels, clothes, and furniture.
The attack was daring, and what is unique is that Abdul Bakikhan (from the envoy set to protect the French during the travel through Kurdistan) saw himself robbed without resistance. As we had been warned these Kurds were clever. Everyone stood guard and watched over the baggage as well as the horses. The Ambassador's tent was closed as best as possible, and his guard, who relieved him from time to time, was very attentive for fear of punishment. There was still a light in the tent, and a fire outside the tent. The ambassador (Abdul Bakikhan) had brought a woman from his Harem to spend the night with her, his valets had withdrawn. Around midnight the Kurds having crept belly to the ground to the middle of the camp, made an opening in one side of the tent, and entered it. One of them presented himself with the cloth in his hand at the Ambassador's bed, while the others pillaged. Abdul Bakikhan, frightened, pretended to be asleep for fear of being massacred. The thieves, after having done their robbery, escaped by the same route without making a noise; at which point the Ambassador began to cry out "thief." His guards entered, and seeing no one, they thought he had been dreaming, and withdrew; but he called them a second time in a frightened tone, told them what had just happened to him, and ordered them to run after the robbers. Alarm arose in the camp; people ran in all directions with lighted torches, but it was in vain. The agile Kurds, knowing the country, easily escaped us.
This passage is a rare depiction of the average Kurd's state in the premodern period and how difficult life was:
I had renewed my provisions of rice and biscuits at Krmashan. The Kurds, inhabitants of the places we passed, brought to the caravan milk, butter, cheese, chickens, and sometimes lambs. One of these Kurds came that day to my tent to sell me chickens. A little girl of twelve to thirteen years old followed him; She was well made and appeared pretty, although her face was a little tanned. A simple linen shirt covered her body: her head was bare, and an iron ring three fingers in diameter hung from one of her nostrils. These rings are considered an ornament in the country: rich or well-off people have them made of gold or silver. This girl was carrying milk and kaimak, which is a strong flaky cream, in two bowls. After making me the felam, she placed them on the ground in front of me and crossed her two arms over her breast, which is a respectful attitude in their culture.
I asked the father, who only wore a pair of linen drawers more, why he didn't dress his daughter better. He answered me in Persian: You speak of it at your leisure, and it seems to me that you hardly know Nadir Shah. To be able to make our clothing, he would have to leave us a piece of bread.
Are we not obliged to sell all that we have to give him money, or else resolve to die under the stick? I am currently being asked for three tomans; I do not know where to get them. My cattle, my flocks, my furniture and my clothes have already been taken by the governmental collectors. I only have two or three sheep left, whose milk provides food for me and for this poor girl. I was touched with compassion, but I was not in a position to remedy their misery. I took the chickens and the milk, and paid them fourfold.
Why did Kurdish authors participate in mythmaking during the premodern period? This paragraph, written by Otter, provides a hint. The French consul was replicating the mythology of Kurdish authors and their aims:
The Kurdish nation is divided into different tribes, distinguished by their languages, as well as by their customs and ways of life. They occupy, from Hurmuz to Malatia and Merache, a large expanse of land, which is bounded to the north by Iran, to the south by Arab Iraq. This country is divided into eighteen districts, and filled with mountains commonly inhabited by the Kurds. The strong men of antiquity, like Rustem, Behram, Ferhad and others, were of their nation. They are valiant, lively and proud.
Otter, the French consul to Nadir Shah's court, paid visits to several Kurdish towns. His comments about Baban and Ardalan are interesting. He did visit Baban when the capital was Kirkuk and the majority of the inhabitants were 'Gorani Kurds':
Kirkuk is today the capital of Chehrezour region, which is part of Kurdistan. This government (Baban) is divided into thirty-two districts, and it is enclosed in between Aderbaijan, Persian Iraq, the countries of Baghdad, Mosul, Amadia & Hakiari.
The Gorani Kurds occupy the greater part of it. Their principal place is called Pelenkian; it is a large town in the canton of Kiziltchè. There is a fort almost impregnable due to its location on a high mountain. Kiziltchè is another fort. The Gorani Kurds originally depended on the Ardalan. Since the take over of the region (by the Babans), the Ardalans have chosen Hafen-abad, a town in the vicinity of Hemedan, as their capital.
In Shahrazur, Otter naturally came across the question of what Empire Kurds of the Kurdish dynasties preferred. The answer is compatible with other sources that discuss the same topic.
The curiosity of seeing a European attracted several Kurds to my tent. I entered into conversation with them, and immediately realized that they were more inclined towards the Persians than towards the Turks. One of them told me that the Persians had, within the last month, drawn more than four thousand horses from this canton, which provides very good ones.
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